An Incomplete History of San Francisco
There are probably close to 200 plaques in San Francisco. Most are dedicated to historic people and places. However, there a a few that are unusual, some almost whimsical. Overall, these plaques are what I like to call "an incomplete history of San Francisco."
When I came to San Francisco my first impulse was to explore the city of Jack Kerouac's On the Road . The book had been a major influence on my decision to move here. One of the first surprises was coming across a plaque on an apartment building near Union Square marking the birthplace of Isadora Duncan. I knew something of this dance pioneer but hadn't known she was born in San Francisco.
Years later, the accidental discovery of a plaque marking the murder site of Sam Spade’s partner from Dashiell Hammett's book The Maltese Falcon set in motion my curiosity about San Francisco's past.
More than a decade later I came across the plaque marking the site of Fort Gunnybags, headquarters of the San Francisco Vigilance Committee of 1856, notoriously known as the Vigilantes, I was hooked on finding historic plaques in San Francisco and learning their stories.
Still, it was several years before I began a concerted effort to locate them. Walking around the city, especially downtown, I discovered a number of fascinating and unusual plaques. At the bookstore of the California Historical Society I asked if they had a book devoted to San Francisco's historic plaques and was told they didn't. When I mentioned my own plans to collect and document them the clerk told me, "If you write it, we'll carry it."
I would spend time eagerly researching, only to find interest in other things taking precedence and the project would be set aside for years. Then a chance conversation where my curious tales of fascinating plaques would capture the listeners' enthusiasm would reignite my passion. Once again I would attack my research vigorously only to once again have it fade. My research began to resemble time-lapse photography. Eventually I was to discover that the appearance and disappearance of plaques often seemed as fluid as the history of San Francisco itself.
When the old Main Library was converted to the Asian Art Museum, a plaque on its southeast corner, which marked the site of the Yerba Buena Cemetery, was never replaced. I suspect it is because of an Asian belief that it is bad luck to build a building on a graveyard.
The plaque marking the site of the Laurel Hill Cemetery on California St. was stolen and has yet to be replaced. I remember during my early research I talked to the building manager there. Claiming to know nothing of the cemetery, she added, “That might explain some of the strange happenings here.”
Plaques are being added. Former mayor Gavin Newsom started a project to mark hundreds of historic sites in the Tenderloin. When MUNI extended the K-line along Third Street the design included a number of plaques at its stations. Many of these are poetic quotes. My original intention was for the project to be encyclopedic. However, when plaques become commonplace rather than historic the task becomes difficult.
E Clampus Vitus is a most unique organization that regularly places plaques. It is commonly regarded to be a pseudo-historical society. I love their plaques and they make a significant and fascinating addition to my collection. A portion of San Francisco's charm and character would be lost without them. Their plaques will soon be on their own page, and how could it be otherwise.
Another notable organization known for installing plaques has been the DAR. Their aim apparent is more genteel than than of E Clampus Vitus. However, there is little doubt that their selections are every bit as important, noteworthy and informative as any other organization.
Somehow I had expected these plaques to remain permanent. As much a fixture of the city as the cooking odors of ginger and soy sauce from kitchens in Chinatown, the pungent fragrance of sauteed garlic emanating from a restaurant doorway in North Beach or the delicate sweet taste of Dungeness crab purchased from a sidewalk vendor at Fisherman's Wharf.
Overall, the plaques provide a fascinating, and what I like to refer to as "An incomplete history of San Francisco." They run all the way from the historic to the whimsical.
I am especially grateful to the San Francisco History Center at the Public Library which has proven to be an excellent resource in uncovering the stories surrounding these markers.
I have tried to avoid plaques marking buildings in the Historic Register. Those placed solely to commemorate family members such as the hundreds marking benches in Golden Gate Park have not been included for obvious reasons. My attempt has been to provide additional information not provided. by the plaque, usually to answer a question that one might ask when discovering a plaque. In some cases there may be a story about the plaque itself. Plaques inside buildings are difficult to uncover and are included when they are discovered. Important examples are the United Nations Conference in the War Memorial Building and the drafting of the U.N. Charter at the Fairmont Hotel.
As stated, the plaques come and go. This introduction is also in flux. Stay in touch and you may discover elements about San Francisco's history of which you were never aware.
-Bill Carpenter
When I came to San Francisco my first impulse was to explore the city of Jack Kerouac's On the Road . The book had been a major influence on my decision to move here. One of the first surprises was coming across a plaque on an apartment building near Union Square marking the birthplace of Isadora Duncan. I knew something of this dance pioneer but hadn't known she was born in San Francisco.
Years later, the accidental discovery of a plaque marking the murder site of Sam Spade’s partner from Dashiell Hammett's book The Maltese Falcon set in motion my curiosity about San Francisco's past.
More than a decade later I came across the plaque marking the site of Fort Gunnybags, headquarters of the San Francisco Vigilance Committee of 1856, notoriously known as the Vigilantes, I was hooked on finding historic plaques in San Francisco and learning their stories.
Still, it was several years before I began a concerted effort to locate them. Walking around the city, especially downtown, I discovered a number of fascinating and unusual plaques. At the bookstore of the California Historical Society I asked if they had a book devoted to San Francisco's historic plaques and was told they didn't. When I mentioned my own plans to collect and document them the clerk told me, "If you write it, we'll carry it."
I would spend time eagerly researching, only to find interest in other things taking precedence and the project would be set aside for years. Then a chance conversation where my curious tales of fascinating plaques would capture the listeners' enthusiasm would reignite my passion. Once again I would attack my research vigorously only to once again have it fade. My research began to resemble time-lapse photography. Eventually I was to discover that the appearance and disappearance of plaques often seemed as fluid as the history of San Francisco itself.
When the old Main Library was converted to the Asian Art Museum, a plaque on its southeast corner, which marked the site of the Yerba Buena Cemetery, was never replaced. I suspect it is because of an Asian belief that it is bad luck to build a building on a graveyard.
The plaque marking the site of the Laurel Hill Cemetery on California St. was stolen and has yet to be replaced. I remember during my early research I talked to the building manager there. Claiming to know nothing of the cemetery, she added, “That might explain some of the strange happenings here.”
Plaques are being added. Former mayor Gavin Newsom started a project to mark hundreds of historic sites in the Tenderloin. When MUNI extended the K-line along Third Street the design included a number of plaques at its stations. Many of these are poetic quotes. My original intention was for the project to be encyclopedic. However, when plaques become commonplace rather than historic the task becomes difficult.
E Clampus Vitus is a most unique organization that regularly places plaques. It is commonly regarded to be a pseudo-historical society. I love their plaques and they make a significant and fascinating addition to my collection. A portion of San Francisco's charm and character would be lost without them. Their plaques will soon be on their own page, and how could it be otherwise.
Another notable organization known for installing plaques has been the DAR. Their aim apparent is more genteel than than of E Clampus Vitus. However, there is little doubt that their selections are every bit as important, noteworthy and informative as any other organization.
Somehow I had expected these plaques to remain permanent. As much a fixture of the city as the cooking odors of ginger and soy sauce from kitchens in Chinatown, the pungent fragrance of sauteed garlic emanating from a restaurant doorway in North Beach or the delicate sweet taste of Dungeness crab purchased from a sidewalk vendor at Fisherman's Wharf.
Overall, the plaques provide a fascinating, and what I like to refer to as "An incomplete history of San Francisco." They run all the way from the historic to the whimsical.
I am especially grateful to the San Francisco History Center at the Public Library which has proven to be an excellent resource in uncovering the stories surrounding these markers.
I have tried to avoid plaques marking buildings in the Historic Register. Those placed solely to commemorate family members such as the hundreds marking benches in Golden Gate Park have not been included for obvious reasons. My attempt has been to provide additional information not provided. by the plaque, usually to answer a question that one might ask when discovering a plaque. In some cases there may be a story about the plaque itself. Plaques inside buildings are difficult to uncover and are included when they are discovered. Important examples are the United Nations Conference in the War Memorial Building and the drafting of the U.N. Charter at the Fairmont Hotel.
As stated, the plaques come and go. This introduction is also in flux. Stay in touch and you may discover elements about San Francisco's history of which you were never aware.
-Bill Carpenter